This week’s column finds me photographing wildlife in the greater Yellowstone ecosystem. Words hardly do this place justus. Even my camera seems inadequate at capturing the immensity and beauty of this place.
For those not fortunate enough to have spent some time visiting Yellowstone here is a little background. It was first dedicated as our nation’s first National Park in 1872. Interesting it was photographs by William Henry Jackson’s that helped persuade Congress to create this park. Now here I am over 100 years later trying to capture some of the same grandeur. I personally have visited Yellowstone dozens of times starting when I was just a boy and continue to this day. Each time is a new and exciting adventure.
But Yellowstone’s history goes back much furthers than 100 years. About 2 million years ago, then 1.3 million years ago, and again about 640,000 years ago, huge volcanic eruptions formed much of what we see today. Nearly 240 cubic miles of ash, rock and other debris were spewed across the area from several volcanoes. In addition a 35-45 square mile circle collapsed to form a caldera or shallow basin. Located within this basin are much of the present day geysers, hot springs and mudpots. Nowhere in the world are there as many geysers as Yellowstone.
While the geological features of this area are a great draw for millions of tourist, it is the wildlife living in their natural environment that most people come to see. Hundreds of bison roam the hills and valleys just as they did thousands of years ago. Herds of elk fill the mountain meadows while Bighorn Sheep climb the steep mountain cliffs. Black Bear share the mountains and valleys with Grizzly Bear.
I am having many exciting encounters with the area wildlife. Just two days ago I hiked up Mount Washburn, a three mile hike up to 10,240 feet, to photograph Bighorn sheep. On the way back down I was enjoying the peace and solitude. The trail is an old gravel road that winds it way around cliffs and across open mountain meadows and interspersed with small tracks of conifer trees. While passing through one of the wooded areas I heard a snap of a twig. I turned my head to the left to see a large grizzly bear tearing apart a log only 50 feet away.
As a photographic opportunity this was a great one. However on the other hand standing alone on the side of a mountain with a full grown grizzly bear just feet away and no where to hide can be a little unsettling. Even now while sitting in my RV writing this story I am still amazed. While standing there, I quickly went through the rules of traveling in grizzly country in my head. First, always carry bear spray. Ok, got that handy. I was just hoping not to use it. Second, always make noise to let the bears know you are there and not surprise them. Too late for that!
I took up a position behind a tree and surveyed the surrounding trees for a suitable tree to climb. While it is not true that grizzly’s can’t climb trees it was the only option I had. After only a minute or so I started talking really loud to let the bear know I was there. The last thing I wanted was a surprised bear. Surprised bears often react by charging and attacking. Even my best efforts at talking very loud didn’t seem to detour this bear from eating. He would only casually look up from his foraging to look at me now and then.
Over the next few minutes my trembling and shaking subsided and I was able to breathe normally again. I also became aware of what the bear was eating. Now and them he would pop up his head to look around and there would be a pine cone held between his teeth. He would crush the cone in order to eat the large and very nutritious seeds within.
After dining on what seemed like dozens of pine cones and lots of plant roots and insects he turned around several times in a tight circle, much like my dog does just before laying down, and the bear plopped down on his side. He gave three deep huffs and promptly fell asleep. I took this opportunity to safely head down the mountain. Just another day of wildlife photography in Yellowstone National Park.